Tim Atkin: Very dense, very dark; slightly pruney nose—some VA. Aussie-style red. Barossa Malbec? High-toned, tannic, masses of oak; some VA on the palate, too. Just too much for me. Supercharged. Hard to drink more than a glass. 14

Gerard Basset: Deep red-black color. Very intense. Slightly volatile, with cherry-in-alcohol nose and fruit cake, too. Firm and solid but ripe. Medium-long finish. 17

Anthony Rose: This is very dense, opaque, and youthful in color; it smells like a dry Port with a sort of spirity, alcoholic baked character, but also lashings of coconutty oak. The fruit is very rich and concentrated, with licorice spice but a powerfully alcoholic, sweet Porty character that some might like but I find excessive, especially since the tannins are also rather unyielding and chunky. 15