Tim Atkin: Rich, dark purple; oak- and alcohol-dominated nose, but with hints of underlying fruit concentration. Touch of cork taint? Cork taint drying out the wine, plus a little Brett; sour finish. Second bottle has more fruit but still some weird characters. Dusty oak, with some Brett. Not a joy to drink. 12

Gerard Basset: Deep purple, with violet rim; medium intensity. Light black-fruit character, with some cured-meat undertones and also a horsey smell. Some leather, too, in retro. Medium intensity. 11.5

Anthony Rose: Deep color; slightly grubby, farmyard whiff of the stable. Rich dark-berry fruit shaped by chunky tannins. Powerful alcohol and savory acidity, with feral, animal undertones. Potentially good fruit, but rather too grubby and feral for its own good. Second bottle has more fruit but is still leathery on the nose and palate, with that whiff of the stables. 13