Tim Atkin: Mid ruby. Some color development at the rim. Savory, smoky, more traditional in style, with well-integrated sweet oak. Still a very young wine, but good smoky fruit, fresh acid, good balance and length. Stylish Rioja. Traditional. 18

Jesús Barquín: Deep cherry with ruby rim. The nose offers jammy fruit and spice (cinnamon, clove), but it is all finesse and freshness on the palate. Elegant and long, this is a magnificent example of classicism in a recent vintage. Traditional. 17

Marcel Orford-Williams: Full, rich, and complex. Oak not yet fully integrated. Lovely finish. Long and fine. Old-style. 16