Tim Atkin: Rich tawny/garnet. Mature. Slightly musty with some volatile acidity. Some might regard this as a lovely old wine; to me it’s rather tired and dry, with the tannins dominating the fruit. Like sitting at the back of an old church: a combination of mustiness and old hymn books. Traditional. 6

Jesús Barquín: Medium to deep ruby, with an aging rim. Not very clean, with leather notes and some volatile acidity dominating the nose and drying the palate. Light in weight and with a detracting astringent finish. Modern. 13

Marcel Orford-Williams: Dense, leathery, spicy. Full flavor, traditional-style Rioja, quite dry. The meaty finish is a touch hard and dry. Good but not great. 13.5