Tim Atkin: Deep, profound color. Weird. Not Rioja-like at all. More like an Italian wine. Tannic and dry, high acid, lacks fruit. Going nowhere, drying out. Overoaked. Not sure what the point of this is. Modern. 7

Jesús Barquín: Very deep cherry. In my judgment this is clearly modern and somewhat excessive in design, with massive color and tannins, and a nose dominated by oak. Well made, but it could come from anywhere in the world. Modern. 15

Marcel Orford-Williams: Very dark, dense. A bit matt. Curious nose. Woody. Better on the palate, but austere. Rioja? Doesn’t taste like one. Charmless. New-style. 8