Alison Buchanan: Brilliant yellow–gold, this offers waxed fruit on the nose and some of that rather green herbaceousness seen elsewhere. The palate is fresh and lively certainly but with an attractive creamed richness to counter. Good intensity, just slightly marred by green notes. 14.5

Alex Hunt: Dumb aromas. The palate has some grip and length, but is a bit vapid – lacks fruit and precision. 13

Andrew Jefford: Full green–gold. It’s actually quite a fine line in Sancerre and P–F between unsuccessful bottling of reduced wine and the classic ‘gunflint’ aromas generally attributed to silex (flint) terroir. For me, this is a true gunflint aroma: smoky and appealing. Intense, deep, searching acidity, with lots of mineral depths behind. Not an easy or crowd–pleasing wine, but there is great depth and purity here, too. Real silex. For aficionados. 16.5