Alison Buchanan: Very rich old yellow gold, almost amber in colour – what does this have in store as a 2004? Intriguing nose. Odds on this would be sent back in a restaurant without tasting with accusations of oxidation. It actually has a rather fresh albeit wet–woolly nose with a herbaceous streak, almost to a fault. The palate is fresh, enticingly honeyed and very different with a mineral nervosity relentless in holding a focus. Sancerre? Not as we know it…but a fine wine nonetheless. 16.5

Alex Hunt: A distinctive golden color and a very obviously late–picked nose of dried fruit and hay. Rich and broad on the palate, though somewhat short, as if it runs of steam after that initial burst of flavor. Dry but very round; not complex, but certainly more than a mere curiosity. 15

Andrew Jefford: Very richly coloued for a young Sancerre: bright, full gold. Intriguing, waxy richness. The grassiness, such as it is, has turned herbal; there’s a little chive (but not, happily, the gross onion). Unusual but intriguing. Intense, weighty, concentrated and ripe. OK: this is not for you if you want pungent classicism, but if you want to see what fine Sauvignon from this terroir can do if it is groomed towards rivalling Savennieres or Preuses, or maybe even Corton–Charlemagne, take a look. Lean yet resourceful palate; searching depths. In the end, what is missing is, yes, aromatic potential, but this is a successful, appellation–broadening wine that I relish and would enjoy with fine food. 15.5