Alison Buchanan: Honeyed sponge cake nose, very advanced and opulent. The nose and palate present layers of ripe fruit underpinned by mineral layers and refreshed but lively acidity. This is a big wine – at once rich but quite austere – something of a “vin de garde”. 16

Alex Hunt: Engaging, warm–mineral nose. But a mossy palate and hot finish; grapes not perfectly healthy. 10

Andrew Jefford: Mid gold. Another disagreeably reduced aroma to begin with, giving way to scents of dried flowers and tisane leaves. Hard and harsh; rigid acidity here. Lacks all charm and subtlety. 8