Nicolas Belfrage: Color code 5; bright. Apple both fresh and baked on the nose. This is the first wine where the epithet “honeyed” comes to mind—it’s like drinking liquid honey. Very sweet, and the acidity does not balance entirely (only partially), yet it will have a great following among honey lovers, and in the end it does have a certain balance and undeniable length. It also has hints of burned caramel but is not quite on the level of magic. 16.5

Michael Edwards: Russet amber lights. Scents of a real vin de paille dried in the attic, then a lengthy period in wood. An unctuously rich, hedonistic palate, with black figs and an almost balsamic quality. A full-on Vin Santo without being over the top. Excellent. 17

Jancis Robinson: Fox red, with good clarity. Very heady and rich—definitely Malmsey strength! Very sweet indeed, but with wood influence, too, so a massive sweet wine with character. Very full and still a little astringent on the finish. Very syrupy but not cloying, because there is masses of acidity, too. Very long. A Port of a Vin Santo! But there is real lift and raciness to this. A very good rendition of a very ripe vintage. Very sweet and rich, yet with tang. Complete. Long. Very fresh end, though still a little chewy. Drink 2010–20. 18

Franco Ziliani: Very intense amber-ruby color, with a great light on the glass. Extremely rich, unctuous, and ripe on the palate, with masses and masses of dried fruit, apricot, fig, and honey, giving a great length to the wine. The nose is very elegant and discreet, with plummy notes and oriental spice and saffron accents. 17