Nicolas Belfrage: Color code 6; tawny, with reddish hue. One of the most intense on the nose, with tobacco and orange peel. Not quite as sweet as some, with good acidity and little oxidation, but a bit more linear and aggressive, despite hints of velvety texture. A distinct bitter edge on the finish. Very drinkable but not exceptional. 14

Michael Edwards: Resonating, fine, amber gold. One of the best noses: a nice touch of vanilla oak and a touch of rancio. Oddly, smells like good Cognac. Composed, elegant, yet full; gras mouthfeel, without sickly sweetness. Impressive, fine dessert wine. 17

Jancis Robinson: Clear orangey/tawny. Nutty, rancio, complex nose, with real energy and vitality. Lovely balance, even though it is not that sweet. Just medium-sweet (or rather, it has lots of residual sugar, but there is also lots of acidity) but with the great tangy edge of rancio. This would make a superbly energizing end to a meal. Very clean and almost dry on the finish. Racy and rich. Long and almondy and vibrant and really exciting. Bracing. Drink 2008–20. 18

Franco Ziliani: A drier style, salty and fresh, with a lively and energetic acidity. A nose that recalls Sherry. Fresh, acid, salty palate, with great energy and vitality. Not so sweet, very young, with interesting aging potential. Fantastic freshness and character. 16