Nicolas Belfrage: Color code 6, with a distinct reddish tint from black grapes, or partially. Attractive, reduced, baked-apple aroma on nose. Very sweet, with good balancing acidity and a creamy texture that gives it a certain class. Very intense and focused, straddling the divide between the oxidized and the fresh. Successful in the modern style. Could be marked a good deal higher for its merits, but I am thinking of faults. 15.5

Michael Edwards: Red-hued, with maturing rim. Almost a spiced-plum aroma. Full, fleshy mouthfeel, decent balance of acidity and unctuousness. Satiny textured. Good to excellent. 16

Jancis Robinson: Fox red, with a very subtly aged rim. Smells like a sweet red wine rather than a long-aged delicacy. On the palate, there is more nobility, though it’s a bit astringent, and the volatility seems very high. Drink soon. 15.5

Franco Ziliani: Marvelous, very lively, fresh color: ruby, sunny, with a great luminosity in the glass. Very complex dried-fruit, flowery, spicy notes of chestnut, honey, fig, dried grapes. Very rich, opulent, and broad on the palate; sweet but not too much so, with an interesting freshness, a balanced acidity, and controlled but interesting sweetness. 16.5