Nicolas Belfrage: Color code 7; brownish, bright. Complex herbs-and-caramel nose. Thick, creamy texture; very sweet but with perfect balance acidity-wise and a savory/salty character not seen elsewhere. Almost like eating: balanced, complex, and very long, with this particular herby, dried-fruit flavor lingering on and on. 17

Michael Edwards: Tawny brown hue. Rather acidulous nose; not much smell of nice, ripe grapes; diffuse. Very sweet and raisiny. A style you either like or don’t. 14.5

Jancis Robinson: Brownish red, with green tones at the rim. Like the other 2003 [Volpaia], very rich and sweet. Some tanginess and astringency on the finish but a little heavy. Not as much vitality as the other 2003. Big and broad of beam, with quite marked astringency on the finish. A hint of raisins. Still just a bit too chewy to enjoy ideally, I’d say. But it may well improve. Drink 2012–18. 16

Franco Ziliani: Amber mahogany color, with a ruby, sunny reflection. The nose is mysterious: slightly alcoholic, with dried orange and leaves and some wild notes. Very rich, sweet, and broad on the palate, with a great consistency, but it lacks freshness and appears just a little too rich and sweet. 15