Nicolas Belfrage: Color code 5; bright. Quite intense banana-and-fig aromas. Very sweet, with acidity balancing, but sweetness wins out. Some toffee on the finish to go with the dried fruit; reasonably good length, but it finishes a bit cloying. 14.5

Michael Edwards: Amber/russet red; shimmering hue. Deep, vinous nose, with black fruits—dates, figs—and smells of the Levant. More firmness in the mouth, good acidity, less softly sweet. I would like to drink this with a blue cheese or old Pecorino. 16.5

Jancis Robinson: Clear orange tawny. Sweet and rich on the nose, without that much rancio. This tastes even older than it is, and it is big and brutal, but it lacks a little bit of acidity and focus. Chewy finish. Drink 2006–14. 16

Franco Ziliani: Brown, intense mahogany color, with ruby reflections. The nose is very rich and ripe, with sunny notes that recall chocolate, tobacco, dried leaves, spices, and figs—a very Mediterranean style. The palate is broad, rich, and harmonious, with a very balanced sweet character and excellent acidity. The finish is very balanced and Port-like but very lively and dry. 16