Nicolas Belfrage: Color code 5; bright. Fresh apple-and-cinnamon nose. Clean and medium-sweet, with a touch of bitterness and acidity to cut the sweetness. Neither here nor there. 14

Michael Edwards: Limpid amber. Nice vin de paille nose, confit of lemon, dried apricots, a touch of spice, even incense. Tangy, orange-pith taste; refreshing and different. 16.5

Jancis Robinson: Mid-orange tawny, with a hint of russet red. Complete, fully mature, interesting nose. Just a tad barley sugar-like, but with great rancio-concentration character. Almost painful to taste because it was so concentrated. Bittersweet finish. There may be quite a lot of sugar there, but it doesn’t taste like it. Treacly. Clean but not especially intense on the finish. Transparent and vital but drying out—in fact, pretty dry on the end. Apéritif-style but pretty demanding to taste. Drink 2005–12. 16

Franco Ziliani: Very discreet nose, on the dry side; just a little excess alcohol. Very fresh on the palate, with good acidity, but just a little too basic, with an alcoholic, bitter finish. 14.5