Nicolas Belfrage: Color code 5; bright. Fragrant nose, almost floral rather than herbal or dried fruit. Caramelized apple and spice come together with hints of toast and marmalade. Not of the high-viscosity school, this will please for its drinkability, combining fresh and dried fruit. Something of an alcoholic hit throws it slightly off balance toward the end, but it is well made and fine. 15

Michael Edwards: Gold to amber rim. Quite a spirity, high-toned nose, not much proximity to preserved-fruit taste. Better on the palate, with soft yellow and white fruits; attractive sweetness, easy and digestible. 15

Jancis Robinson: Pale, bright orangey-tawny, with a pinkish hue. Sweet, burned, almost bitter caramel-syrup nose. Good refreshing acidity. Not that much rancio—just clean sweet-and-sour characters. Doesn’t seem especially oxidative. A bit chewy on the end. Fades a little. Drink 2006–13. 16

Franco Ziliani: Very fresh, elegant gold-orange color. Nose very fresh, dry, and salty, with almond notes. Very fresh on the palate; dry, with great freshness and lively acidity and an interesting, long finish. Not spectacular, but very well made. 15.5