Nicolas Belfrage: Color code 4; bright golden. Dried fruits and even nuts on the nose. Sweet, with pretty good acidity, it finishes slightly cloying but is pretty convincing on the whole, though there’s a bitter twist at the back that detracts somewhat. 15.5

Michael Edwards: Limpid, mid-gold. Honeyed, light-hued fruit. Quite a low-key palate, with pleasant crystallized lemon, but lacks the classic character of an unctuous Vin Santo. 14.5

Jancis Robinson: Deep gold—much lighter than most and without any greenness. Amazingly, this doesn’t really smell of anything much. Really rather dull. Sweet, nutty, slightly beery. Very distinctive. Medium-dry, but all that age doesn’t seem to have conferred much complexity. Or is this a sort of Chianti Rùfina style that is light and simply needs much more time? No, I think not. There’s a slight mousiness about this wine. Drink 2006–12. 15.5

Franco Ziliani: Gold, sunny color, full of energy. Elegant salty, flowery notes, with just a hint of mint, spice, and oxidation. Not so sweet on the palate, with a vibrant, lively acidity and great freshness. 15.5