Nicolas Belfrage: Color code 6; medium-deep golden. While admitting this has to follow a very hard act, it seems to lack the balance and sexiness of the best Vin Santi. There is a bitterness and austerity on the finish that make it unlovable if respectable. 14

Michael Edwards: Burnished gold. Vin de paille conserved fruitiness of apricots and white peaches. A little short on finish. 15

Jancis Robinson: Orangey tawny. Very transparent but without much shading. A hint of mousiness, though good refreshment value and a bit of rancio. Light and easy and just off-dry. I suspect this had a bit more excitement hitherto and that the fruit has faded a little. A bit sour and acetic. Drink 2004–12. 16

Franco Ziliani: Golden-amber color; very fresh and brilliant. The nose is very dry and salty, with good acidity and clear definition. Just a little dry, without development or complexity on the palate. A good example of controlled oxidation and good freshness, but a little too simple. 15