Nicolas Belfrage: Color code 7; cloudy, almost murky. The nose has lost some of its force through oxidation, and there is an uppish VA. Much more interesting on the palate, though the overall impression is of a faulty wine, yet one whose faults render it almost appealing. Not the breadth of others, but a good line of acidity running down the middle. Very toffee/caramel aroma-wise, though with dried-fruit character, too. Surprisingly long. Hard to judge because it has appeal despite its faults. 12.5

Michael Edwards: Brown, almost medicinal color. Diffuse, quite cloudy. Oxidative nose; aromas and scents all over the place. Still quite edgy acidity, hard-to-define flavors, a touch of saccharine sweetness. Not my cup of tea. 13.5

Jancis Robinson: Cloudy greenish brown. An acetic nose, with some raisin character. Sweet and loose on the palate. No refinement. It tastes as soupy as it looks, alas. Sweet and sour but rather rustic. Drink 2006–12. 14.5

Franco Ziliani: Very dark brown color. The nose has some fascinating aspects, with dried grapes, chestnut autumn leaves, and earth notes. Very sweet on the palate, but with surprisingly good acidity that gives some freshness on the finish. 15.5