Essi Avellan: Deep color with golden hues. Highly evolved nose, with super-ripe fruit, dried fruit, and coffee. Tiring also on the vinous, calm palate. Unfresh aromatics. A second bottle is a little fresher but still aged. 83

Simon Field: Deeper straw, old-gold color; tiring lactic nose; the palate is honied with flecks of hazelnut and macadamia; from the oxidative end of the spectrum, freshness at something of a premium. For all its antiquarian outlook, I suspect that many will like this for its old-school generosity of spirit! The second bottle is parsed in the same way; so, consistent at the very least. 87

Anthony Rose: Mid-gold in color, suggesting a fair dollop of Pinot or some oak, or both, this does have a substantial note of farm butter in the aroma, not rancid, but oxidative, in a buttered Brazil nuts sense, and that nuttiness is nicely integrated into the fruit, whose distinct grip on the finish gives this a winey firmness and bittersweet freshness. Not to everyone’s taste, and to be drunk sooner rather than later, but it should appeal to the goût anglais. 90