David Harvey | Bright lemony gold. Lemony, dried-apple fruit, tarte tatin nose. Not conventional reductive Burgundian winemaking regime, but neither is it likely to be premox prone. Palate is ready. Loose. Generous. Spreads out. Lightly oxidative—and addictive—flavor profile. Very Valette. Might be the kind of wine that performs somersaults in the bottle, in the decanter, meaning that one never “knows” it. This wine is perfect for those who might want to try “natural” but want the comfort of familiar terroirs, grapes, and flavor set. | 18

Andrew Jefford | Full old gold, but clear. Very honeyed and butterscotchy; seems a little vulgar, honestly. On the palate, though, it is a fresher wine than that super-malolactic nose suggested; clean and light, with some grace and charm. It’s a simple wine with modest concentration and finesse. It would fail to impress in a run of top-flight Mâcon wines. | 12

Isabelle Lageron | Golden delicious on the nose, hints of vanilla and other sweet spices. Wow, the palate opens up; great concentration and finish, with apparent terroir coming through. The wine shows tremendous detail held up by a structure of steel. Quite feisty in a positive way. The wine sits everywhere on the palate, a complete experience. Long, complex, and juicy finish. As the wine opens up, it develops even more weight. Pretty stunning. | 19

Francis Percival | Stately and sedate. Although this is definitely an oxiditive interpretation of Chardonnay, there are no rough edges to the wine. Stewed apples and heady, perfumed pears dominate the nose and the wine is beginning to show a touch of caramel. | 15

David Williams | There’s something a little tired and oxidative about the nose at first—a little muted and flat—but then a little agitation brings out something white floral and an almond-like nuttiness. There’s a warmth and generosity in the mouth, but it’s layered, too—a cool, stony, mineral quality, a bit of citrus zip, under that ripe apple and pear and more exotic fruit. Layered and intriguing, long and flowing finish. | 15.5

Doug Wregg | Burnished golden yellow. Rich oxidative aromas—honey, grilled mushrooms, and toasted nuts. Taut-skinned fruit, yellow cherries, greengages, really tight in the mouth, slowly releasing citrus oils onto the tongue. The minerality is beautiful, adding an almost salty dimension to the wine. Very young at the moment—should develop nicely in 3/5 years. | 18.5