David Harvey | Mid- to full-ruby red hue. Dark, meaty, rubbery, slightly Bretty nose. Hint of oak. Smells crafted, considered, rather than haphazard. Definitely belongs in the world of fine wine, as well as the ethical and pure. Long, fine-grained finish. Bordeaux drinkers will feel at home here. A cool, calm collected (black fruit with mint highlights), modern vin de garde. Drink from now for 12/15 years. Delicious and terribly grown up. | 18

Andrew Jefford | Saturated black-red. Attractive savory fullness, but no fresh fruit. Again, a kind of seaweedy note, though in contrast to some other wines, this is fresh and appetizing. A little featureless, finally, though the savory fullness draws you in. On the palate, the wine is relatively simple and acidic compared to the best red Côtes Catalanes, and even as a pure Carignan it is quite light; yet the sloe-elderberry fruit has a kind of graceful charm —this is a wine with lots of poise and lift. | 14.5

Isabelle Lageron | Savory, gamey nose with dark spices. On the palate, gamey notes are faint, dominated by sweet spices and black-cherry notes. Opulent and generous. Dry rosemary. Almost violet-like in its floral attribute. Complete, not shy of being the wine it is. Luscious, getting more complex as it opens. Intense, smart, wholesome. | 17.5

Francis Percival | Black-fruited, but with a savory, smoky aspect. This blossoms considerably with more time in the glass. There is something gravel and slate about the nose, but the structure is supple and accessible. Some spiciness, but not tremendous depth. | 12.5

David Williams | Evocative warm-climate red, exhaling garrigue, olive, and tarry blackberry. Meaty-savory depths, very svelte and supple tannin, super-fresh and mineral finish. Delightful. | 16.5

Doug Wregg | Dark red color. Love the nose—wild, meaty, earthy, with medicinal garrigue aromas. Beef stock, then lovely interplay with dark-berried leathery fruit, thyme, rosemary and a terroir-defining saltiness. This smacks of old vines. Natural acids keep the wine fresh and savory in the mouth; the balance is exceptional. | 19