David Harvey | Mega orange. Darker than most rosé. Looks like something that must be good for you, or fatal. Incredible nose. Deep, complex, toned, compelling. Tea, geranium, stones, oranges, and something... disturbing. Perhaps it smells like a dying alien. Attack is surprisingly smooth, with some dry botrytis notes, and then the grip kicks in. It’s all tone and texture, precision and perfume, again ying yang. The finish is very dry, crunchy, intense, and this structure will keep the wine alive. Needs air, food, and/or time. Keep for up to 15 years; remember to check it every so often. A nice thing with this level of structure is that it demands attention not only to itself, but to food and to conversation; because the wine cannot be quaffed, one remains more alert to everything. | 19

Andrew Jefford | A glowing russet-orange in color. Very attractive visually, once you have convinced yourself wines are allowed to look like this. Alas, it doesn’t smell attractive. Harsh and coarse on the palate. I am always happy to find tannins, but these seem to stand a little way outside the wine; its acidity is hard and edgy; there is too much finishing bitterness, and not enough central palate charm. I wouldn’t want to sip this. I’m sure many wines tasted like this in the past, but there is little point in heading back in that direction. | 8

Isabelle Lageron | Profoundly intense nose, fresh walnuts, allspice revealing a concentrated, dense palate. An uncompromising experience, sheer complexity, licorice, aniseed, sweet propolis, great tannic structure, helps balance the explosion of aromas. Some VA perhaps, but it is all part of the complexity of the wine. Remarkable freshness to the wine, which should be extremely long-lived. A must try for anyone wishing to taste orange wine. | 20

Francis Percival | Deep color that hovers between copper and tawny. Impressive impact, but quite challenging; not for the faint hearted. There is a cheesy character, a washed-rind or an aged blue. Harmonious in the mouth, with a remarkably elegant tannic structure. Nimble and precise, despite its breadth. | 17

David Williams | Serious orange wine, with an Oloroso-like intensity of orange citrus, nuts, and salt, but with really appetizing, gently gripping tannin, a pulse of acidity and a bit of Italianate cherry kernel bitterness: love the feel here, and the sense of subtle change as you return to the glass each time. Very convincing—you get the impression that the winemaker knows what he wants here, and is entirely in control. It’s also delicious. | 17.5

Doug Wregg | Russet apple color. Wild fruits and herbs bound from the glass, hedgerow perfumes also. Properly phenolic, with flavors of sloes, rough-skinned apples, but also refreshing, with tangy rhubarb to pucker the tongue. The tannins reassert themselves to give structure but the acidity carries the fruit briskly to the end. | 18