David Harvey | Bright mid-amber, with slight haziness. Very deep, pure, still wine. Toned. Almost hides in the glass. Doesn’t smell like wine. And then on the palate... fluid attack, pure as per the nose, and toned, precise, complex, driven, subtle, elegant, individual—basically everything. Profound wine. The finish is gently tannic, just gathers in nicely, long, grainy and utterly attractive. If it were a red, it would be a Mugnier, an Arlaud, an Arlot. Hints of the natural, and loads of the beauty, and a dash of other worldliness. While it may be kept (cold, please), it will be better drunk, enjoyed, and remembered. One could keep it. But why? This is what I call “wine” which most other wine never comes close to. Aromas grow as the wine sits in the glass and expands. | 19.5

Andrew Jefford | Glowing, faintly cloudy orange. This smells more of cider and apples than grapes, but it is not without complexity. It’s another wine that really has too much bitterness on the palate, and little resonance to the fruit; simply cidery. Making this style of wine successfully is a considerable challenge. I could manage a small glass of this, for the sake of its tannins, but not more. | 11

Isabelle Lageron | Nose is floral, almost lifted, dried orange-rind, orange-flower blossom; sweet honeyed flavors on the palate, yet this is bone-dry. Almost like salt caramel sprinkled with candied Parma violets. Some volatile acidity on the palate, but it’s part of the complexity and weirdly brings freshness to the wine. Tannic, a dash woody, all contributing to the overall balance of this somewhat full-on wine. Needs food to tame it a little, but a great example. Uncompromisingly memorable. | 18

Francis Percival | Caramel and stewed fruit on the nose. This is positively restrained for the flight of orange wines. The tannin is matched by a nice depth of extract that is texturally very satisfying. Brandied fruit and Christmas spice on the finish add to the friendly, approachable impression. | 15

David Williams | Sweet toffee and salted caramel, dried fruit and nuts—a gorgeous seam of tangy-tart red-cherry fruit and acidity, so multi-layered, texturally intriguing, and aromatically appealing and rewarding. | 17.5

Doug Wregg | Amber veering to brown. Cider-house rules on the nose, but the apples are sweet. Really juicy, almost velvety texture, with a gentle tannic graining, like biting into a fresh Williams pear. Finish lacks a bit of verve, but very drinkable nonetheless. | 15.5