David Harvey | Mid-amber hue, light haze only, Orange-y, glossy nose. Bright, young, juicy, chewy, dense, compact wine. Needed more time before bottling, more time in the bottle, or the right food. Little perfume or prettiness on the palate, but time will resolve some of that. Let’s just say it is a bit two-dimensional today. | 15.5

Andrew Jefford | Full gold and lightly cloudy. Some aromatic resonance here: apples, certainly, but pears, quinces, and a little honey. Lovely tannins on the palate, but the fruit is undeveloped, surely picked too early, with the palate consequently totally dominated by the acid-tannin combination and its reminiscence of rough cider. There is, though, a lingering, implied complexity here, which suggests that this could have been an interesting wine if picked a little later. The only thing that gives the wine a little welcome richness is the finishing umami, which comes from this production technique. I could drink a glass with pleasure, but would struggle to demolish half a bottle. | 14

Isabelle Lageron | Nose is quite shy and subdued, with fennel seeds coming through. Tannins dominate the structure of this wine, bone-dry, quite gripping; then, after the initial tannic hit, delicate spices come through, fresh hay, apricot-kernel, oak spices, and orange rind. Complex, even if the tannins need taming by time. A bit like a happy puppy in need of training. Very good. Screams pork belly. | 18.5

Francis Percival | Vanilla, cinnamon, and autumn fruit. Another example that does not make a fuss of its time on the skins; indeed, the tannic structure is discrete. Quite voluptuous and giving, but a little monochrome in its outlook. | 14

David Williams | Very difficult to assess. It challenges your expectations; the tannins here are so prominent —and so dry—that if it were a red wine we’d be calling it overextracted, unripe, while the acidity is searing. Should we settle for rustic, and take the rough with the smooth of its snappy-sappy apple fruit and salty-savoriness? | 13

Doug Wregg | Deep amber color, but quite clear. Nose has plenty of depth, almost layers of cushioned fruit. This is beautiful, with smooth, cinnamon-spiked apple fruit, delicate tannins, and a gentle, herbal dusting. The seam of acidity is delightful, lifting the ensemble and, as the wine unfolds in the glass, you get secondary notes of dry honey. Still in its infancy, though. | 19