David Harvey | Deep amber hue. Hedonistic Muscat-like nose. All talk and no conversation. A fun and easy way into the orange wine genre, though the heady perfume may put off some. I can see it being used in wine pairings with creative chefs’ tasting menus. I could not drink a lot of it, however, and I am not sure that the lesser Malvasia and Muscat family members make the best orange wines. One-dimensional. | 14

Andrew Jefford | Deep orange, though not particularly cloudy. Hey, a lovely nose: amazing Muscatty force, here. Not at all pristine or clean, but the attendant complexities of the production technique lend that attractive musk a nourishing earthiness, even a kind of profundity that the pristine, reductive versions might not have. After that great nose, the palate comes as a mild disappointment at first; the nose led the drinker to assume it might be richly constituted, concentrated, and maybe even a little sweet. Instead, it’s fresh and dry... and as light as an orange Muscat ever could be. But I think it is still a very successful wine, as the tannins lend the Muscat a grandeur and an intrigue that is rare in conventional, reductive, unfortified versions; it’s weighty, chewy, edgy, and chunky as well as perfumed and beguiling. And the amphora fermentation (or whatever) has been very well-supervised, too; there are no off-notes or catastrophes-in-waiting. Finally, the lovely umami fill out and lend the finish its satisfying wealth. An excellent wine. | 17

Isabelle Lageron | Rich, overt, opulent nose, deeply aromatic. Round and tannic palate, perhaps lacking some concentration on the palate, slightly hollow. Dominant tannins. Floral, roseate, almost Muscat-like aromatics. Fresh texture and enjoyable. Drink now. | 15.5

Francis Percival | Headily perfumed and aromatic. Structurally, this finds its balance in a different place from the other orange wines; the tannins are almost imperceptible and the acidity is also muted. Everything depends upon those aromatics, but over time these become a little jaded. | 12.5

David Williams | Smells like Muscat. But it’s Muscat vaporized by alcohol aromas and heat à la clumsy Beaumes-de-Venise (although not fortified)— plus tannin. Hard work and difficult to know when you’d drink it. | 10

Doug Wregg| Pure red gold. The nose is enchanting, yielding aromas of pink grapefruit, honeydew melon, and orange blossom, but the palate is understated. There is a lick of lime on the finish, but I’m wanting a touch more—some minerality or smoky flavors to offset the softness of the mid-palate. Third taste—the wine comes together with some flickering yeastiness, a saline twist, and orange-zest. A natural amber wine that moves in the glass. | 17