Neil Beckett: White gold. Arresting nose, with a discreet, earthy authenticity and more personality than most, which are flawless but slightly featureless by comparison with this single-vineyard wine (of which only 500 cases). Despite the wood, which is evident but well integrated, there is real fruit intensity and terroir transparency. Gentle entry, full body, round, smooth, and sweetly fruited, apricot and peach, but at the same time complex, long, refined, and subtle. Arcadian ease in a glass, languid and totally undisturbed, for enjoying at such a time (or in the hope of such a time). Jean-Marie Guffens, the man behind Verget, apparently rates the Pouilly-Fuiss_ Les Combes Vieilles Vignes even more highly this vintage; but while it possesses an even more sumptuous, syrupy texture, it seems blowsy and burly by comparison with the La Roche .