Stephen Brook | Tangy tropical-fruit nose, individual and bracing. Quite rich and svelte, with good if not exceptional acidity and less zest than the nose. Good solid fruit here and a tangy sweet-and-sour tone on the finish. There’s ample grip and persistence, too. Good length. | 16.5

Andrew Jefford | Clear, limpid silver-gold. Is this wine a little older? Anyway, there seems to be more aromatic development than in its peers—and to beneficial effect: soft citrus, but also sweet hay, meadow flowers, and a little hammered stone or flint, too. It’s a little bit like mature Hunter Valley Semillon, too: bean flour or parsley. An attractive and articulate whole. Richer on the palate, too, with a complex spectrum that embraces citrus, apple, pear, and those same crushed or pounded rock notes. Complete and good. | 16.5

Stephan Reinhardt | Pale white gold. On the nose, a pastry shop with lots of brioche, orange/apricot marmalade, almonds, and nougat. Also, on the palate, this Riesling reminds me of mature, vinous Champagne. Very nice to have with food, but without, it dries out a little bit. The acidity is a little too aggressive, especially on the finish. | 15.5