Stephen Brook | Rather murky appley nose that lacks some freshness. Relatively soft attack, rounded and plump, a solid fruity style that lacks verve and vigor. There is ample acidity here, so the wine doesn’t lack persistence, but there’s not much finesse or poise. Unexciting. Moderate length. | 13

Andrew Jefford | Pale gold. A rather dry set of aromas; everything held in reserve. Some grumpy reduction, too. Anyway, you don’t jump for joy when you smell this. On the palate, it’s better, though the fruit expression is still rather Gothic: sheer, high walls of apple and a pared grapefruit spire. However, it is a much more satisfying wine on the palate than to sniff, and it has plenty of the non-fruit residuum we could call “mineral”: complex and satisfying. I wish I could give it a higher score, but you would need a little more aromatic generosity for that. (Perhaps we should run this entire tasting all over again, we should try ten-year-old stock instead.) | 16

Stephan Reinhardt | Pale silver-gold with greenish shimmer. Subtle and spicy nose, with dominating citrus and green-apple aromas. Lean and firm on the palate, powerful, very reductive; needs some aeration but already shows a good character with good length and complexity. | 16.5