Stephen Brook | Bracing apple-and-citrus nose. Rich and juicy, with solid fruit that’s a touch heavy-handed. This lacks the verve of the best wines, though it shows ample fruit and concentration. Sound, nicely dry, but doesn’t set the pulses racing. Moderate length. | 14.5

Andrew Jefford | Fuller gold than some of its peers. Sweet and warm, graceful and charming, but a little vague, without a lot of aromatic precision. However, after so many rather skinny wines, I love the implied plumpness here. Concentrated and long, with plenty of crushed-stone back-flavors to fi ll out the soft citrus fruits and lend them poise and dignity. Grapefruit pith at the end. Shapely and complete. With more aromatic focus, this would merit a higher score. | 16

Stephan Reinhardt | Pale gold. Ripe-fruit aromas, some earthy flavors. Rich and slightly milky, bitter towards the finish; lacks fruit and succulence. | 12.5