Mannie Berk | By the 18th and 19th centuries, the descendants of João Afonso Correia are estimated to have owned as much as half of the island. And in 1812, they earned the right to be called Visconde de Torre Bella, a title befitting Madeira’s biggest landowners. The Torre Bella estate encompassed a great deal of the island’s prime vineyards, including sites in Câmara do Lobos, Ribeira Brava, and Campanário. At one time, it even included the great Malmsey vineyards at Fajã dos Padres. But by the end of the 1980s, the family had almost died out, with just one direct descendent, Susan, the Viscondessa and Condessa de Torre Bella, surviving. In November, 1988, most of the Torre Bella Madeiras of Susan’s sister Ann (who’d died in 1986) were sold at Christie's in London. According to the Christie's back label on these bottles, the wines were “blended, rebottled, and recorked in the family Frasqueira in Funchal in April 1987” under the supervision of Captain Ogilvie Fairlie, Ann’s husband. The wines sold at Christie's are labeled mostly as either Verdelho or Tinta Negra from single harvests: 1877, 1879, 1905, and 1950. As for the wines belonging to Susan, Bob Maliner purchased “the remaining bottles in her personal collection” in 1992 in a private sale. Like Ann’s bottles, Susan’s bottles are of varying shape and size. When opened for the tasting, the corks were tiny, no more than 3/4” (2cm) in length.

Roy Hersh | Likely in bottle for about the past 40 years, was Mannie’s conclusion. Medium maple color with ruby glints in the center and a greenish-amber edge. Early on, some ethyl acetate and vitamin pill odors emanated from the glass, but mostly blew off. This Torre Bella could probably have used even more time in the decanter. A mélange of refined scents comprising roasted coffee bean, grilled pineapple, rock candy, spearmint, and butterscotch arose, but high-toned notes remained as well. Full-bodied and Sercial-like in its utter dryness; silky and vinous, with flavors of coconut, marzipan, and a smoky, bitter espresso appeal. Piercing acidity intertwined well with the tart flavors and led to a lingering, well-sculpted, edgy finish. | 17