Mannie Berk | Avery’s stock of 1822 Verdelho has been the source of some confusion over the years, since the vast majority of bottles were clearly labeled “solera” but the occasional bottle has not been. Are they different wines? This bottle is one of the few whose label does not say “solera."

Roy Hersh | Medium-dark orange-amber color with a golden-tawny rim. A polarizing Madeira, since some loved this and others … not so much. An initial sulfur scent blew off rather quickly and a more enticing character emerged, with generous notes of fig, toasted almond, lemon-zest, vanilla-bean, and bouillon cube. Full, rich, and rather sumptuously textured, with custard smoothness and a seamless glide across the palate. The excellent transparency and penetrating acidity enliven the meaty and citrus core, propped by an expansive, cashew-nut, nuanced, harmonious finish. My question to the group was: “Does it really matter if this is actually a Solera or not, because ultimately, what does it change?” From my experience, not many discerning Madeira palates can tell the difference. | 17.5