Michael Edwards: A classic, handmade Chablis in the Pinson’s highly distinctive style, characterized by an assured, enriching, softening use of oak but without any overt woodiness. The top Montmains for me this year, less steely and shivery than some—the subtle, savory green fruits are preserved with a fine interplay of calcaire elegance, oak, and latent vinosity. A charmer to come. 17.5