Neil Beckett: Pale gold, good reflet. Ripe and reductive on the nose, light butter and hazelnut, spiced pear, but not nearly as obvious as that sounds; rising minerality, purity, and subtlety, too. Medium-bodied, lightly grippy on the attack, the welcome light phenolic rub lending definition, while an austere mineral note underneath lends precision and ratchets up the tension. Considerable aging potential, but this is already an exciting, intriguing wine, offering both gratification and scintillation. Excellent. 17