Andrew Jefford: Dense, saturated black-red. And the grandeur just keeps coming. Another wine of effortless aromatic complexity: roast beef, thyme, rosemary, lavender, pollen. I could sniff this all afternoon. Another noseful of van Gogh. Massive wealth and depth of flavor: a huge presence in the mouth. Yet it’s so fresh, and so exquisitely defined: vivacious, dancing, singing, and the songs all in Occitan. Amply tannic, yet sveltely tannic; a long aftertaste in which the wild, tough plants have their way. One of those wines you just have to take your hat off to. Awesome composition: Whoever made this has done everything impeccably—from the harvesting decision, through to the last details of élevage. Great vineyards, evidently. Grand wine. If you have the money, buy it. Phew! Châteauneuf defined. 19.5

Simon Larkin : Slightly high-toned aromatics, not revealing much in the way of fruit character. The palate is, however, expressive, with a generous, flowing fruit, baked berry/cherry, red and dark fruits with a hint of garrigue. The acidity underscores the generous fruit, adding to a sense of elegance. A fairly classic tradition style: well made and constructed, with a dusky element to the fruit. This is a warming but appealing style. 14.5

John Livingstone-Learmonth: Dark robe; smoky, stewed-fruits air— plums, for instance; not really firing openly today. A small note of licorice and garrigue features in the second or third rank. There is a pleasing little knot of concentration on its unshowy palate, with a drift of 2010 acidity rendering it live on the finish. Interesting wine that will appeal to the keen drinkers to get head and palate both engaged. Its Grenache heart is solid and more traditional than cleaned-up modern. Completely authentic. From 2015 to 2027/29. 17