Andrew Jefford: Saturated black-red. Sweet, wild, lots of hay, bay, and wineskin. dense, rich, full, earthy, lush, textured… did I say textured? these are some of the tightest, most suspension-bridge tannins in the whole tasting, but the core of fruit is up there, too, and I’m confi dent that the whole thing will hang there beautifully for at least a decade and maybe more. I have to warn you that it is a little bit forbidding at present, and the nose is a little oak-scored, so the score is for the future. commanding and authoritative and built on a core of what is obviously wonderfully well-sited old-vine fruit. Explosive tightness and fruit power here. 18

Simon Larkin : a nose of kirsch and sweet ripe fruit emerges from the glass. the palate is generous, relatively expansive, with a notes of spiced raspberry, loganberry, and garrigue. there is a savory component evident, too, with a marked sense of spice and herbs. this is not a modern interpretation but is suggestive of an old-vine cuvée. Warmth is evident on the finish, but this does not obstruct the impression of a generous, rich châteauneuf. a more classical interpretation than many in its fl ight. 16

John Livingstone-Learmonth: dark robe; reserved bouquet with interest in its hover of black berry fruit, a subtle infi ll of herbs, fl int, and licorice; some arid lands here. It is shapely and promising. the palate delivers a baked note, its content compressed and ripe, as if it has come from north african shores: a real vin de soleil. It is tightly sealed now and needs leaving until spring 2016 to display more essence. It has a “six-pack” form and carries the need for game and robust dishes. I like its nature—a wine of yore, as it were. It is long, sustained. 2016 to 2028/31. 17