Andrew Jefford: Dense, saturated black-red. Charming, diverting scents: the wind in the reeds. Once again, the sweetness of wild plants and grasses rather than overripe fruits; lovely hay vanillins and perhaps some oak vanillins, too. A faint hint of coffee. Nothing overstated, though; all very aerial. Dense and rich on the palate; intense, long, and complex. Just a little bit gruff and mute at this stage; needs time; but plenty to satisfy here (proportion of Mourvèdre?). Even giving it air in the mouth begins to tease out its intricacies. Unquestionably a wine to decant if you want to drink it at any age under seven, just to ease its tight pores apart a little. Splendid raw materials in here. 17

Simon Larkin : A more brooding, dark-fruit character is evident on the nose. The palate is generous, polished, with a pleasing sense of poise. The acidity underscores the generous, rich fruit, and despite the weight, it is hard not to be impressed by the poise exhibited. Another fine showing for a cuvée of this level: abundant fruit (spiced raspberry, loganberry, and dark cherry), layered, good complexity (something savory, something scented), wonderfully ripe but nothing overblown. 14.5

John Livingstone-Learmonth: Full, dark, black-centered robe. Good, broad sweep to the nose, bears black-cherry aromas, liqueur or coulis fruits in style. Still very young, primary; fruit is the major part of it, though some floral instincts are present. Attractive fruit sets the palate in motion—has a dark, earthy smudge in it and keeps that dark note through to the aftertaste. This is well channeled, bringing a very gradual increase in tempo and depth as it travels—a winning process. Complete, clear finish is the hallmark of 2010. From spring 2015 to 2029/32. 17.5