Andrew Jefford: Saturated dense black. I can smell those sweet, black grape skins in this, with a little spilled juice; still very much in the primeval phase. The aromas fill the glass like Phil Spector’s Wall of Sound: very sweet and southern, but commanding, too. There are darker olives behind. Not quite as florally attractive or as focused and precise as some; a great brooding aromatic presence. In the mouth, too, this is very big, packed with sweet (but not overripe) fruit, washing over the tongue like a wave. Lovely tannins and textures settle down on the tongue in the spume. Commanding and generous wine from excellent vineyards, though without quite the finesse in élevage that I detect in some of its peers. 15.5

Simon Larkin : Restrained, spicy berry and baked fruits on the nose, with hints of garrigue. A glossy, polished style on the palate, with a spicy element to the fore. The fruit here verges on the savory, plenty of garrigue/Provençal herb notes, allied to deep, brooding berry fruit. This is a more imposing style, slightly heady, but nonetheless well made. It walks the line between headiness and restraint, and I would be fascinated to see how this progresses, because the palate possesses fine direction and length for the level. 15

John Livingstone-Learmonth: Dark robe, full appeal. Broad nose, which is hardly out and about; there is a deep inlay of quiet black fruit; some licorice, for now, its power from within, not an outer imposition. The black-berry jelly indicates the calm ripeness of the crop. This holds juicy fruit, real good waves of it, takes on a smoked, charcoal touch as it runs, and needs 2+ years to integrate that into the mainstream. Lissom, fluid wine, in step with the 2010 profile. Lots of lucid, textured fruit still swirls on the toasted finish. Has style and good polish. From mid-2015 to 2028/31. 18