Andrew Jefford: Deep black-red in color. Harmonious scents: a sweet Provençal compost of thyme and broom flowers, tapenade and barbecued meat juices. Something rootier behind, too. Glorious aromatic intricacy, if just a little bit aromatically dangerous, since super-ripe. For the time being, though, all is well and it sings its songs with great conviction. Intense, deep, and concentrated on the palate: a wine of total assurance and authority. Sumptuous tannins, while the fruit spectrum is sweetly plummy and brambly. The sweeter end of black fruit, in other words, but nothing remotely raisiny, either; perfectly judged ripeness. A little soft acidity, but that’s not the point at all: Extracts and tannins do all the balancing work. The spice becomes apparent as the fruit flavors fade; seamless alcohol integration, too. Hard to better this as an architectural model for the perfectly structured rich red. Bravo! 18.5

Simon Larkin : A comparatively muted nose with high-toned mulberry fruit, dusky, slightly brooding. There is a mere suggestion of surmaturité— or at least that curranty impression that the fruit was harvested on the cusp of surmaturité. A generous, warming showing, with bright acidity to offset. Alas, the overall impression is of a disjointed style lacking in precision. 11.5

John Livingstone-Learmonth: Dark red; rather voluptuous nose offers the sunny appeal of 2009 ripeness: profound, still young. Has a smoky, dark-red fruit density. Spiced palate, has a richness that is settling, some dark-rimmed tannins still showing early punch. Drink from 2015, for more variety and interest, to 2027. 16