Andrew Jefford: Dense, deep black-red. Warm, complex scents—a freshly harvested wheat field on a high summer day. Creamed semolina, too (or cooled couscous, if you prefer). Later, there is slightly more evident fruit—and some oak? Or is it just wood? After 15 minutes, the aromas have lost a little subtlety and finesse. So Châteauneuf on the palate: smooth, long, effortlessly muscular, amply fleshy, but very carefully arranged and disposed so that—in contrast to many of its peers—there is nothing forbidding about this wine at all. It may be a rugby player in girth, but it slides out on to dance floor and waltzes with the best of them. Lovely faint lavender, hidden inside the plump black fruits and the oil-seeping tapenade. A lovely drink; refined aftertaste emphasizes the garrigue flowers. I don’t think I’d keep this quite as long as some of the others, though. 15

Simon Larkin : A relatively reserved nose, with notes of brooding dark berry, licorice, allied to a savory element. The palate exudes that kind of blueberry fruit, slightly perfumed at first. Not the generosity of some in the flight, this is tauter, more restrained. The finish captures a scented garrigue quality, as well as a more savory aspect. This may need time to open out; well balanced, with evident alcoholic warmth on the finish, but there is potential here. More patience required. 13.5

John Livingstone-Learmonth: Dark red; brooding, meaty, smoked depth on the bouquet—this is wide and well filled and reflects Grenache faithfully. Prune and blackberry and smoked bacon feature strongly. The palate is a sturdy, slow-moving affair; in a less balanced vintage, it would risk heaviness due to its accentuated ripeness. Has a broad, southern, sweet-noted jam filling, with a warm set of tannins rounding the finish. Autumn-winter, game and beef stews: the time and the dishes for this. It sustains well along the palate. To 2026/28. 16.5