Andrew Jefford: Saturated dense black. Harmonious, serene, sweet, warm, almost talc-like, with a rumor of figgy fruit beneath. Very sweet, concentrated; almost a Grenache distillate. A huge unburdening of sweet berry raisin; a kind of unfortified sketch for a Port project. What an astonishing thing to taste! As with many of these old-vine cuvées, it is so unclassical and unique that it is very hard to score. But it is also so true, so elemental, so primeval, such an essence of old vine in dry earth that (for me) any modest score would be small-minded and entirely miss the point... Wine like this is just something that anyone who loves wine should not omit to try before they die. Though yes, it is excessive, and yes, it isn’t classically perfect and yes, technical tasters would find plenty of elements to object to. But never mind… 17

Simon Larkin : A heady, high-toned nose suggests a powerful, assertive wine to follow. Sweet licorice and kirsch notes from the nose are replicated on the palate. Boredom sets in fast— this is heady, surmature, and lacking in poise or elegance. That almost ethyl acetate, nail-polish-remover note from the nose pervades everything. Heady, anonymous juice. 9

John Livingstone-Learmonth: Dark, filled robe; modern, wide bouquet that brings in a note of resin, oak, soaked cherries with their spirit evident. Polished leather and licorice also feature. The palate has the smooth texture of ripe, shapely Châteauneuf; also reveals some charge, spirit as it goes. There is a line of that spirit through its “shiny” black-cherry fruit, and the effect on the finish is glow, luckily, rather than heat. Rather cellar-contrived over truth from the vineyard. Polished, but could have more soul. From late 2015 to 2026/28. 15