Richard Mayson: Deep gold color; high summer honeysuckle aromas, lovely honeyed fruit initially, revealing itself to be fully mature mid-palate and fading on the finish. Undoubtedly a very well-made wine that is just going over the top. Difficult to score, especially in this context. 15

Charles Metcalfe: An astonishing color of burnished gold, as befits this wine’s age. Dark, rich aromas of toast, lemon marmalade, and honey. It’s fully mature but fascinating, and still very drinkable, with rich, toasty flavors, elements of cooked citrus, and highish acidity. An uncompromising style, mature but hugely characterful, with very good length. 17.5

Joanna Simon: Deep, golden yellow. Buttery, oaky, oxidative nose. Similar on the palate but more honeyed, with deep mineral notes and high acidity. Medium-full, intense. A very distinctive, aged style, but not to my taste. A love-it-or-loathe-it style and wine. 14.5