Richard Mayson: Ripe, toasty, and enveloping on the nose, just a bit too much oak for the fruit to express itself, even on the finish. Lovely, fresh, lemony fruit underlying, but it doesn’t really get a look-in at this stage, with all that toast and butter oak. 15.5

Charles Metcalfe: Complex, with a whiffof reduction, but good, lean, barrel-fermented style. Very lean, with high acidity and good, Burgundian minerality. Complex aromas of lemon, hazelnut, and cooked bananas. Lovely, lean, uncompromising style. 17.5

Joanna Simon: Toasty, oak-dominated nose and palate. Good concentration of fresh, green fruit on the palate, with a rich, layered texture, but there’s too much oak. 13.5