Richard Mayson: Very overt, warm-country, tropical aromas, sweet grapey fruit with no real depth or substance on the palate; all up-front and lacking direction, leaving a sweet grapey taste on the finish. Rather simple. 12.5

Charles Metcalfe: Complex, rich, fruited, barrel-fermented. Lovely nose. Lean, salt-spray acidity and tropical-fruit flavors. Perhaps the barrel work is a little too evident, but there’s ripe, exotic fruit to back it up and good, lean structure. (I wonder why both Jo and I thought it was oaked? It isn’t!) 16

Joanna Simon: Intensely grassy, lemony, petrolly aromas— almost like mature Hunter Semillon. Rich, fresh, dry, lemon-curd flavor and texture, with the oily richness cut through by fine acidity and carefully framed by oak. 17