Essi Avellan: Medium-deep cherry color. Pretty, perfume-like, red-berry nose. Sweet, confectionary notes and gentle toast in the back. Balanced, energetic palate, with medium-length. Really well made, with easiness and finely balanced dosage. 17.5

Simon Field: Classic pale pink/amber color and generous aromas of wild strawberry and Viennese patisserie—or patisserie from any other city, for that matter. The sweet, slightly developed fruit is carried to the palate; goût anglais, the indulgent, slightly loose-knit sweetness of which will horrify the purists. Pure it is not, therefore, but satisfying in its evolved wisdom. 17

Tom Stevenson: Pale peach color, light in the mouth, lovely delicacy of fruit, but needs a few months— just a few months—for the nose to fall in line with the palate. Very soft, silky mousse. 17.5