Essi Avellan: Bright orange-hued onion-skin color. Sweet caramel nose, slightly lifted but not disturbingly. Peachy, patisserie. Fresh and smooth but finishes clumsy and short. 15.5

Simon Field: Onion skin with hints of amber; perfumes of mirabelle plum and mid-season strawberry; the palate is surprisingly lean, hints of development underscored by phenolics but all held in a pleasing counterpoint. Cerebral, with reserve wine adding interest and complexity. 17.5

Tom Stevenson: Almost marmalade color—another clear glass bottle? Nice, delicately rich fruit, quite intense but without weight. Excellent acidity; lovely soft, silky low-pressure mousse. 18.5