Essi Avellan: Deep peachy color. Sweet apricot nose, with light toasty-smoky undertone. Fresh and lively, not hugely complex, but clean, balanced, and enjoyable. 16.5

Simon Field: An almost glazed copper color belies quite a classic red-fruit nose, with a gently spicy subtext. The palate is broad and velvety—an impressionistic tableau, with attention to detail sacrificed in the name of the pleasure principle... Just a shade too much dosage, perhaps. 15.5

Tom Stevenson: A classy, very pale peach to salmon color, heaps of fruit; ready to drink now, but the fruit will mellow and develop finesse in bottle. 17.5