Essi Avellan: Deep cherry-red color. Ripe Pinot nose without autolytic characters. Cherry, forest floor, and light spiciness. Fleshy, wide palate with crisp acidity. Winey and one-dimensional with a little tannin. 13.5

Simon Field: Nectarine color and appropriate perfume of peach and fruit basket. The palate has cerise and strawberry; unabashed dryness and quite firm tannins at the end. Needs more post-disgorgement time but has definite gastronomic potential. 16.5

Tom Stevenson: Very fresh juicy-plum fruit, withatouch of citrus on the finish and a well-judged dosage. Nicely balanced mousse: enlivening, tingly, with tiny bubbles. 17.5