Essi Avellan: Deep salmon-peach color. Fresh, lively nose, with toast, wood, vanilla, and spiciness. Powerful, fleshy, velvety palate, with good concentration. Oaky, with controlled oxidation but quite good in this style. 16

Simon Field: Praline and mango inform the nose, ripe and gently toasty; the palate seems strangely unformed by comparison; a little foursquare despite plenty of opportunity to glide toward maturity. More time needed. 14.5

Tom Stevenson: Pale salmon color. Very, very rich, mellow fruit. Quite big, needed a lighter touch. 17