Essi Avellan: Pale peachy color. Troublingly lifted red-fruit nose with oak. Fleshy and rich but with a drying finish. 13

Simon Field: Onion-skin color and a very delicate but persistent bead. The nose is touched a little by oak; beyond that, desiccated fruit and intimations of gravitas. The palate is raw and phenolic at the moment, primary and rather coarse. Needs a lot of time for the components to get to know each other. 14.5

Tom Stevenson: Very pale old-gold/pink-gold color, with lifted strawberry aromas of Pinot on the nose. A well-crafted wine that is really quite beautiful in its way but really made for drinking, not keeping—and there is nothing wrong with that when constructing a Champagne rosé, especially if it is not vintaged. 18