Essi Avellan: Deep, bright red color. Smooth, mellow red-berry nose. One-dimensionally cherry-like on the palate, with a big but smooth mousse. Lacks finesse and complexity. 7

Simon Field: Cherryade color; leaving aside any innate prejudice, the extensive length of maceration has dulled any vestigial aspiration to produce an elegant Champagne, with no shortage of success. 11

Tom Stevenson: Dark, brooding, and unattractive color, with such a musty, old smell (it does not deserve the dignity of “aroma”), almost of stagnant drains that I asked for a second bottle, which was exactly the same! 2